{"id":7153,"date":"2023-08-05T16:04:04","date_gmt":"2023-08-05T09:04:04","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/olphs.net\/?p=7153"},"modified":"2024-05-17T13:54:08","modified_gmt":"2024-05-17T06:54:08","slug":"ban-ve-hat-ca-phe-lau-nam-aged-coffee","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/olphs.net\/talking-about-aged-coffee-aged-coffee\/","title":{"rendered":"B\u00e0n v\u1ec1 h\u1ea1t c\u00e0 ph\u00ea l\u00e2u n\u0103m \u2013 Aged Coffee"},"content":{"rendered":"

Trong su\u1ed1t l\u1ecbch s\u1eed, c\u00f3 nhi\u1ec1u lo\u1ea1i th\u1ef1c ph\u1ea9m l\u00e2u n\u0103m hay gi\u00e0 \u0111i d\u01b0\u1eddng nh\u01b0 s\u1ebd l\u00e0m cho n\u00f3 ngon h\u01a1n \u2013 ch\u1eb3ng h\u1ea1n nh\u01b0 r\u01b0\u1ee3u vang, pho m\u00e1t v\u00e0 d\u01b0a chua. Ngay c\u1ea3 c\u00e0 ph\u00ea c\u0169ng kh\u00f4ng n\u1eb1m ngo\u00e0i xu h\u01b0\u1edbng n\u00e0y. C\u00f3 nhi\u1ec1u ph\u01b0\u01a1ng ph\u00e1p v\u00e0 ngu\u1ed3n g\u1ed1c kh\u00e1c nhau c\u1ee7a c\u00e0 ph\u00ea l\u00e2u n\u0103m, v\u00e0 m\u1ed1i quan t\u00e2m m\u1edbi v\u1ec1 n\u00f3 \u0111\u00e3 xu\u1ea5t hi\u1ec7n tr\u1edf l\u1ea1i tr\u00ean th\u1ecb tr\u01b0\u1eddng c\u00e0 ph\u00ea trong th\u1eddi gian g\u1ea7n \u0111\u00e2y.<\/span><\/p>\n

Theo t\u1eeb \u0111i\u1ec3n Merriam Webster, \u201cAged\u201d (t\u00ednh t\u1eeb) l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t \u0111\u1ecbnh ngh\u0129a v\u1ec1 \u0111\u1ed9 tu\u1ed5i, ch\u1eb3ng h\u1ea1n nh\u01b0 \u201c\u0111\u00e3 gi\u00e0\u201d ho\u1eb7c \u0111\u1ea1t \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c ch\u1ea5t l\u01b0\u1ee3ng mong mu\u1ed1n ho\u1eb7c tr\u1ea3i qua m\u1ed9t s\u1ef1 thay \u0111\u1ed5i \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c mong \u0111\u1ee3i theo th\u1eddi gian nh\u01b0 \u201caged\u00a0wine\u201d hay \u201caged\u00a0coffee\u201d.<\/p>\n

merriam-webster<\/p><\/blockquote>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

L\u00e3o h\u00f3a l\u00e0m t\u0103ng h\u01b0\u01a1ng v\u1ecb c\u1ee7a nhi\u1ec1u lo\u1ea1i th\u1ef1c ph\u1ea9m, nh\u01b0ng \u201cc\u00e0 ph\u00ea gi\u00e0 h\u01a1n\u201d kh\u00f4ng ph\u1ea3i l\u00fac n\u00e0o c\u0169ng t\u1ed1t h\u01a1n | \u1ea2nh:\u00a0thespruceeats<\/a><\/em><\/span><\/p>\n

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M\u1eb7c d\u00f9 nghe c\u00f3 v\u1ebb tuy\u1ec7t v\u1eddi, nh\u01b0ng kh\u00f4ng nh\u1ea5t thi\u1ebft l\u00e0 t\u1ea5t c\u1ea3 c\u00e0 ph\u00ea s\u1ebd cao c\u1ea5p h\u01a1n ch\u1ec9 v\u00ec n\u00f3 l\u00e2u n\u0103m (c\u0169ng kh\u00f4ng ph\u1ea3i v\u1edbi r\u01b0\u1ee3u l\u00e2u n\u0103m ho\u1eb7c pho m\u00e1t). Tuy nhi\u00ean, \u201cc\u00e0 ph\u00ea l\u00e2u n\u0103m\u201d (ch\u00fang t\u00f4i t\u00e1n th\u00e0nh c\u00e1ch g\u1ecdi n\u00e0y h\u01a1n \u201cc\u00e0 ph\u00ea gi\u00e0\u201d \u2013 nghe nh\u01b0 c\u00e0 ph\u00ea ch\u1ec9 v\u1eeba m\u1edbi ch\u00edn tr\u00ean c\u00e2y c\u0169ng kh\u00f4ng h\u1eb3n l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t th\u1ee9 m\u1edbi l\u1ea1, m\u1eb7c d\u00f9 d\u00f3 x\u1ee9ng \u0111\u00e1ng nh\u1eadn \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c gi\u00e1 cao h\u01a1n v\u00e0 n\u00f3 c\u00f3 th\u1ec3 t\u1ea1o ra m\u1ed9t s\u1ed1 h\u01b0\u01a1ng v\u1ecb \u0111\u00e1ng mong \u0111\u1ee3i. Khi nh\u1eefng kh\u00e1i ni\u1ec7m v\u00e0 xu h\u01b0\u1edbng ph\u00e1t tri\u1ec3n nh\u01b0 th\u1ebf n\u00e0y b\u1eaft \u0111\u1ea7u t\u0103ng t\u1ed1c, \u0111i\u1ec1u quan tr\u1ecdng l\u00e0 ph\u1ea3i \u0111\u1eb7t c\u00e2u h\u1ecfi v\u1ec1 m\u1ee9c \u0111\u1ed9 ph\u1ed5 bi\u1ebfn v\u00e0 \u00fd ngh\u0129a th\u1ef1c s\u1ef1 c\u1ee7a ch\u00fang. D\u01b0\u1edbi \u0111\u00e2y l\u00e0 ngu\u1ed3n g\u1ed1c l\u1ecbch s\u1eed, n\u01a1i b\u1eaft \u0111\u1ea7u cho s\u1ef1 c\u01b0\u1eddng \u0111i\u1ec7u v\u1ec1 s\u1ef1 th\u1eadt c\u1ee7a c\u00e0 ph\u00ea l\u00e2u n\u0103m.<\/span><\/p>\n

L\u1ecbch s\u1eed c\u1ee7a \u201cc\u00e0 ph\u00ea gi\u00e0\u201d<\/h3>\n

Khi c\u00e0 ph\u00ea l\u1ea7n \u0111\u1ea7u ti\u00ean \u0111\u1ebfn ch\u00e2u \u00c2u v\u00e0o nh\u1eefng n\u0103m 1500, th\u1ee9 m\u00e0 ng\u01b0\u1eddi ch\u00e2u \u00c2u nh\u1eadn \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c l\u00e0 \u201cc\u00e0 ph\u00ea l\u00e2u n\u0103m\u201d.\u00a0V\u00e0o th\u1eddi \u0111i\u1ec3m \u0111\u00f3, ngu\u1ed3n cung c\u1ea5p c\u00e0 ph\u00ea c\u1ee7a ch\u00e2u \u00c2u \u0111\u1ebfn t\u1eeb\u00a0c\u1ea3ng Mocha<\/a>, n\u01a1i ng\u00e0y nay l\u00e0 Yemen.\u00a0V\u00f2ng qua M\u0169i H\u1ea3o V\u1ecdng c\u00f3 th\u1ec3 m\u1ea5t h\u01a1n m\u1ed9t th\u00e1ng, kh\u00f4ng kh\u00ed bi\u1ec3n v\u00e0 th\u1eddi gian v\u1eadn chuy\u1ec3n \u0111\u00e3 l\u00e0m thay \u0111\u1ed5i h\u01b0\u01a1ng v\u1ecb c\u1ee7a c\u00e0 ph\u00ea.\u00a0Ng\u01b0\u1eddi ch\u00e2u \u00c2u \u0111\u00e3 quen v\u1edbi vi\u1ec7c u\u1ed1ng c\u00e0 ph\u00ea \u0111\u00e3 \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c \u1ee7 \u00edt nh\u1ea5t v\u00e0i th\u00e1ng.\u00a0Ngay c\u1ea3 sau khi ng\u00e0nh h\u00e0ng h\u1ea3i ph\u00e1t tri\u1ec3n h\u01a1n r\u1ea5t nhi\u1ec1u, h\u1ea7u h\u1ebft ng\u01b0\u1eddi ch\u00e2u \u00c2u v\u1eabn th\u00edch c\u00e0 ph\u00ea l\u00e2u n\u0103m h\u01a1n c\u00e0 ph\u00ea t\u01b0\u01a1i. C\u1ee5 th\u1ec3, nh\u00e0 s\u1eed h\u1ecdc Antony Wild trong cu\u1ed1n\u00a0L\u1ecbch S\u1eed C\u00e0 ph\u00ea<\/a>\u00a0(2020) \u0111\u00e3 \u0111\u1ec1 c\u1eadp:<\/span><\/p>\n

\n

V\u00e0o kho\u1ea3ng n\u0103m 1850, m\u1ed9t l\u00f4 h\u00e0ng h\u1ea1t c\u00e0 ph\u00ea r\u1eddi kh\u1ecfi b\u1edd bi\u1ec3n Malabar, \u1ea4n \u0110\u1ed9 \u0111\u1ec3 \u0111\u1ebfn tay ng\u01b0\u1eddi mua c\u00e0 ph\u00ea \u1edf khu v\u1ef1c Scandinavi tr\u1ea3i qua th\u1eddi gian v\u1eadn chuy\u1ec3n \u0111\u01b0\u1eddng bi\u1ec3n r\u1ea5t d\u00e0i. Trong chuy\u1ebfn h\u00e0nh tr\u00ecnh nhi\u1ec1u th\u00e1ng tr\u00ean \u0111\u1ea1i d\u01b0\u01a1ng v\u00f2ng quanh m\u0169i H\u1ea3o V\u1ecdng, qua nh\u1eefng c\u01a1n m\u01b0a gi\u00f3 m\u00f9a n\u1ed5i l\u00ean t\u1eeb V\u1ecbnh \u1ea2 R\u1eadp, h\u1ea1t c\u00e0 ph\u00ea Arabica ch\u1ee9a trong t\u00fai \u0111ay s\u1ebd h\u1ea5p th\u1ee5 \u0111\u1ed9 \u1ea9m trong h\u1ea7m c\u1ee7a nh\u1eefng chi\u1ebfc thuy\u1ec1n bu\u1ed3m b\u1eb1ng g\u1ed7. N\u01b0\u1edbc bi\u1ec3n v\u00e0 h\u01a1i \u1ea9m t\u1eeb nh\u1eefng c\u01a1n m\u01b0a gi\u00f3 m\u00f9a n\u1eb7ng n\u1ec1 s\u1ebd khi\u1ebfn h\u1ea1t c\u00e0 ph\u00ea ph\u1ed3ng l\u00ean v\u00ec \u1ea9m \u01b0\u1edbt, tr\u1ea3i qua nh\u1eefng thay \u0111\u1ed5i h\u00f3a h\u1ecdc, m\u00e0u s\u1eafc h\u1ea1t chuy\u1ec3n t\u1eeb xanh x\u00e1m sang v\u00e0ng \u0111en, k\u00e9o theo gi\u1ea3m kh\u1ed1i l\u01b0\u1ee3ng v\u00e0 k\u00edch th\u01b0\u1edbc g\u1ea5p \u0111\u00f4i, \u0111\u1eb7c t\u00ednh h\u01b0\u01a1ng v\u1ecb c\u0169ng \u0111\u00e3 thay \u0111\u1ed5i.<\/strong>
\nKhi ng\u01b0\u1eddi mua \u1edf Scandinavi nh\u1eadn \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c nh\u1eefng h\u1ea1t c\u00e0 ph\u00ea n\u00e0y, h\u1ecd \u0111\u00e3 quen v\u1edbi \u0111\u1eb7c t\u00ednh h\u01b0\u01a1ng v\u1ecb \u0111\u1eb7c bi\u1ec7t c\u1ee7a ch\u00fang. Sau nhi\u1ec1u n\u0103m, khi c\u00e0 ph\u00ea Malabar \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c h\u01b0\u1edfng danh ti\u1ebfng tr\u00ean c\u00e1c th\u1ecb tr\u01b0\u1eddng kh\u00e1c nh\u01b0 Lu\u00e2n \u0110\u00f4n, h\u1eadu c\u1ea7n v\u1eadn chuy\u1ec3n \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c c\u1ea3i thi\u1ec7n, c\u0169ng nh\u01b0 vi\u1ec7c \u0111\u00f3ng g\u00f3i v\u00e0 b\u1ea3o quan t\u1ed1t h\u01a1n th\u00ec kh\u00e1ch h\u00e0ng kh\u00f4ng th\u1ea5y h\u01b0\u01a1ng v\u1ecb c\u00e0 ph\u00ea gi\u1ed1ng nh\u01b0 tr\u01b0\u1edbc. \u0110i\u1ec1u n\u00e0y bu\u1ed9c c\u00e1c nh\u00e0 s\u1ea3n xu\u1ea5t \u1ea4n \u0111\u1ed9 ph\u1ea3i x\u00e2y d\u1ef1ng l\u1ea1i c\u00e1ch ch\u1ebf bi\u1ebfn (m\u00f4 ph\u1ecfng chuy\u1ebfn \u0111i bi\u1ec3n). Hong kh\u00f4 c\u00e0 ph\u00ea c\u1ee7a v\u1edbi \u0111\u1ed9 \u1ea9m cao, ph\u01a1i th\u00e0nh \u0111\u1ed1ng trong nhi\u1ec1u ng\u00e0y nh\u1eb1m l\u00e0m cho n\u00f3 \u201cm\u1ed1c\u201d l\u00ean nh\u01b0 tr\u01b0\u1edbc \u0111\u1ec3 c\u00f3 th\u1ec3 gi\u1eef ch\u00e2n c\u00e1c th\u1ecb tr\u01b0\u1eddng quen thu\u1ed9c.<\/strong><\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n

\"\"B\u1ea3n \u0111\u1ed3 minh ho\u1ea1 c\u00e1c con \u0111\u01b0\u1eddng v\u1eadn chuy\u1ec3n c\u00e0 ph\u00ea (v\u00e0 c\u00e1c s\u1ea3n ph\u1ea9m kh\u00e1c) t\u1eeb\u00a0<\/em><\/a>C\u00f4ng ty \u0110\u00f4ng \u1ea5n h\u00e0 Lan<\/a>\u00a0\u2013 v\u1ec1 Ch\u00e2u \u00c2u<\/a><\/em><\/p>\n

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V\u1edbi ba t\u00e1c \u0111\u1ed9ng m\u00f4i tr\u01b0\u1eddng: th\u1eddi gian, kh\u00f4ng kh\u00ed \u1ea9m v\u00e0 n\u01b0\u1edbc bi\u1ec3n m\u1eb7n \u0111\u00e3 \u0111\u1ed3ng th\u1eddi thay \u0111\u1ed5i \u0111\u00e1ng k\u1ec3 c\u00e0 ph\u00ea.\u00a0Ng\u01b0\u1eddi ch\u00e2u \u00c2u th\u00edch n\u00f3 h\u01a1n h\u01b0\u01a1ng v\u1ecb c\u1ee7a c\u00e0 ph\u00ea t\u01b0\u01a1i.\u00a0Tr\u00ean th\u1ef1c t\u1ebf, khi k\u00eanh \u0111\u00e0o Suez m\u1edf c\u1eeda v\u00e0o n\u0103m 1869, ng\u01b0\u1eddi ch\u00e2u \u00c2u ph\u1ea7n l\u1edbn t\u1eeb ch\u1ed1i lo\u1ea1i c\u00e0 ph\u00ea t\u01b0\u01a1i ngon h\u01a1n m\u1edbi \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c cung c\u1ea5p cho h\u1ecd \u0111\u1ec3 \u1ee7ng h\u1ed9 nh\u1eefng th\u1ee9 \u0111\u00e3 l\u00e2u n\u0103m. \u0110\u1ec3 l\u00e0m h\u00e0i l\u00f2ng nh\u1eefng ng\u01b0\u1eddi ti\u00eau d\u00f9ng trung th\u00e0nh, c\u00e1c nh\u00e0 ch\u1ebf bi\u1ebfn \u0111\u00e3 t\u00e1i t\u1ea1o l\u1ea1i qu\u00e1 tr\u00ecnh th\u1eddi ti\u1ebft tr\u00ean \u0111\u1ea5t li\u1ec1n b\u1eb1ng c\u00e1ch x\u00e2y d\u1ef1ng c\u00e1c nh\u00e0 kho m\u1edf r\u1ed9ng l\u1edbn. C\u00e0 ph\u00ea xanh t\u1eeb b\u1edd bi\u1ec3n Malabar hi\u1ec7n \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c l\u01b0u tr\u1eef trong c\u00e1c nh\u00e0 kho c\u00f3 m\u1eb7t tho\u00e1ng tr\u00ean v\u00e0nh \u0111ai ven bi\u1ec3n ph\u00eda t\u00e2y nam \u1ea4n \u0110\u1ed9, v\u1ecb tr\u00ed n\u00e0y cung c\u1ea5p nhi\u1ec1u kh\u00f4ng kh\u00ed bi\u1ec3n m\u1eb7n gi\u00fap b\u1eaft ch\u01b0\u1edbc qu\u00e1 tr\u00ecnh l\u00e3o h\u00f3a m\u00e0 ng\u01b0\u1eddi ch\u00e2u \u00c2u th\u1eddi \u0111\u00f3 \u0111\u00e3 quen.<\/span><\/p>\n

C\u00e0 ph\u00ea \u201cgi\u00f3 m\u00f9a Malabar\u201d<\/h3>\n

V\u00e0o \u0111\u1ea7u nh\u1eefng n\u0103m 1900, c\u00e0 ph\u00ea gi\u00f3 m\u00f9a \u201ct\u1ef1 nhi\u00ean\u201d b\u1eaft \u0111\u1ea7u bi\u1ebfn m\u1ea5t khi nh\u1eefng t\u00e0u v\u1ecf th\u00e9p thay th\u1ebf nh\u1eefng chi\u1ebfc t\u00e0u g\u1ed7 c\u0169 k\u1ef9. Ph\u1ea3i m\u1ea5t v\u00e0i th\u1eadp k\u1ef7, cho \u0111\u1ebfn khi c\u00e1c nh\u00e0 v\u1eadt l\u00fd c\u1ed1 g\u1eafng t\u00e1i t\u1ea1o hi\u1ec7u \u1ee9ng \u201cgi\u00e0 \u0111i\u201d c\u1ee7a c\u00e0 ph\u00ea \u1edf \u1ea4n \u0110\u1ed9 b\u1eb1ng c\u00e1ch s\u1eed d\u1ee5ng c\u00e1i g\u1ecdi l\u00e0 qu\u00e1 tr\u00ecnh gi\u00f3 m\u00f9a (monsooning process<\/em>). Sau khi \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c thu ho\u1ea1ch t\u1eeb th\u00e1ng 10 \u0111\u1ebfn th\u00e1ng 2, c\u00e0 ph\u00ea \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c\u00a0ch\u1ebf bi\u1ebfn kh\u00f4<\/a>\u00a0v\u00e0 b\u1ea3o qu\u1ea3n trong c\u00e1c kho th\u00f4ng gi\u00f3 t\u1ed1t d\u1ecdc theo B\u1edd bi\u1ec3n Malabar (theo ch\u1ec9 d\u1eabn \u0110\u1ecba l\u00fd v\u1ec1 H\u00e0ng h\u00f3a c\u1ee7a \u1ea4n \u0110\u1ed9). Khi gi\u00f3 m\u00f9a b\u1eaft \u0111\u1ea7u v\u00e0o th\u00e1ng 6, nh\u1eefng h\u1ea1t c\u00e0 ph\u00ea ti\u1ebfp x\u00fac v\u1edbi m\u01b0a v\u00e0 gi\u00f3 trong v\u00e0i tu\u1ea7n (t\u1eeb 12 \u0111\u1ebfn 16 tu\u1ea7n). Khi ch\u00fang h\u1ea5p th\u1ee5 \u0111\u1ed9 \u1ea9m, h\u1ea1t c\u00e0 ph\u00ea n\u1edf ra, thay \u0111\u1ed5i m\u00e0u s\u1eafc v\u00e0 quan tr\u1ecdng h\u01a1n l\u00e0 m\u1ea5t \u0111i m\u1ed9t ph\u1ea7n \u0111\u1ed9 chua (acidity<\/a>). Tr\u1ea3i qua qu\u00e1 tr\u00ecnh n\u00e0y, c\u00e0 ph\u00ea \u0111\u1ea1t \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c \u201cs\u1ef1 \u00eam d\u1ecbu \u0111\u1ed9c \u0111\u00e1o\u201d m\u00e0 ng\u01b0\u1eddi ch\u00e2u \u00c2u \u0111\u1eb7c bi\u1ec7t \u0111\u00e1nh gi\u00e1 cao.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"M\u1ed9t nh\u00e0 kho c\u00e0 ph\u00ea t\u1ea1i Malabar | \u1ea2nh:\u00a0<\/em><\/a>Volcafe Select<\/a><\/em><\/p>\n

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C\u00e0 ph\u00ea \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c s\u1ea3n xu\u1ea5t theo c\u00e1ch n\u00e0y \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c \u1ea4n \u0111\u1ed9 cho ra m\u1eaft tr\u00ean th\u1ecb tr\u01b0\u1eddng qu\u1ed1c t\u1ebf v\u00e0o \u0111\u1ea7u n\u0103m 1972, ngay c\u1ea3 tr\u01b0\u1edbc khi phong tr\u00e0o\u00a0c\u00e0 ph\u00ea \u0111\u1eb7c s\u1ea3n<\/a>\u00a0t\u1eadp h\u1ee3p m\u1ed9t l\u1ef1c l\u01b0\u1ee3ng \u0111\u00f4ng \u0111\u1ea3o tr\u00ean to\u00e0n th\u1ebf gi\u1edbi v\u1edbi c\u00e1i t\u00ean\u00a0Monsooned Malabar<\/em><\/a>.<\/span><\/p>\n

Theo th\u1eddi gian, s\u1ef1 \u01b0a chu\u1ed9ng \u0111\u1ed1i v\u1edbi c\u00e0 ph\u00ea l\u00e2u n\u0103m m\u1ea5t d\u1ea7n v\u00e0 h\u1ea1t c\u00e0 ph\u00ea t\u01b0\u01a1i tr\u1edf th\u00e0nh lo\u1ea1i c\u00e0 ph\u00ea \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c \u01b0a chu\u1ed9ng \u1edf ch\u00e2u \u00c2u.\u00a0T\u01b0\u01a1ng t\u1ef1 nh\u01b0 v\u1eady, m\u1ed1i quan h\u1ec7 c\u1ee7a Hoa K\u1ef3 \u0111\u1ed1i v\u1edbi c\u00e0 ph\u00ea l\u00e2u n\u0103m thay \u0111\u1ed5i trong nh\u1eefng n\u0103m qua khi c\u00e0 ph\u00ea t\u01b0\u01a1i ng\u00e0y c\u00e0ng c\u00f3 s\u1eb5n.\u00a0Tuy nhi\u00ean, trong nh\u1eefng n\u0103m g\u1ea7n \u0111\u00e2y, xu h\u01b0\u1edbng c\u1ed1 \u00fd l\u00e0m gi\u00e0 c\u00e0 ph\u00ea \u0111ang gia t\u0103ng \u1edf ch\u00e2u \u00c2u, M\u1ef9, \u0110\u00e0i Loan v\u00e0 c\u00e1c n\u01a1i kh\u00e1c.<\/span><\/p>\n

Hi\u1ec3u v\u1ec1 s\u1ef1 l\u00e3o ho\u00e1 c\u1ee7a c\u00e0 ph\u00ea nh\u00e2n xanh<\/h3>\n

Kh\u00f4ng ph\u1ea3i t\u1ea5t c\u1ea3 c\u00e0 ph\u00ea l\u00e2u n\u0103m \u0111\u1ec1u c\u00f3 c\u00e1c ti\u00eau chu\u1ea9n ch\u00ednh x\u00e1c nh\u01b0\u00a0Monsooned Malabar,<\/em>\u00a0nh\u01b0ng c\u00f3 s\u1ef1 kh\u00e1c bi\u1ec7t gi\u1eefa c\u00e0 ph\u00ea l\u00e2u n\u0103m v\u00e0 c\u00e0 ph\u00ea ch\u1ec9 \u0111\u01a1n gi\u1ea3n l\u00e0 c\u0169. Trong qu\u00e1 tr\u00ecnh l\u00e3o h\u00f3a, c\u00e1c h\u1ee3p ch\u1ea5t t\u1ea1o m\u00f9i v\u00e0 h\u01b0\u01a1ng b\u1ecb ph\u00e2n h\u1ee7y do qu\u00e1 tr\u00ecnh oxy h\u00f3a, c\u01b0\u1eddng \u0111\u1ed9 l\u00e3o h\u00f3a thay \u0111\u1ed5i t\u00f9y theo c\u00e1c \u0111i\u1ec1u ki\u1ec7n m\u00f4i tr\u01b0\u1eddng kh\u00e1c nhau. \u0110i\u1ec1u n\u00e0y t\u1ea1o ra h\u01b0\u01a1ng v\u1ecb b\u1ed5 sung m\u00e0 tr\u01b0\u1edbc \u0111\u00e2y \u2013 khi c\u00e0 ph\u00ea c\u00f2n t\u01b0\u01a1i m\u1edbi, kh\u00f4ng c\u00f3. Khi c\u00e0 ph\u00ea rang gi\u00e0 \u0111i, nhi\u1ec1u h\u1ee3p ch\u1ea5t kh\u00f4ng h\u00f2a tan, ch\u1eb3ng h\u1ea1n nh\u01b0 cellulose v\u00e0 hemicellulose, k\u1ebft h\u1ee3p v\u1edbi lipid b\u1ecb oxy h\u00f3a v\u00e0 \u0111i qua m\u00e0ng t\u1ebf b\u00e0o. \u0110i\u1ec1u n\u00e0y t\u1ea1o ra h\u01b0\u01a1ng v\u1ecb kh\u00f4ng mong mu\u1ed1n, l\u00e0m cho c\u00e0 ph\u00ea c\u00f3 v\u1ecb ph\u1eb3ng (flat), m\u1ed1c (musty) v\u00e0 th\u1eadm ch\u00ed \u00f4i thiu (rancid). Trong kho\u1ea3ng th\u1ebf k\u1ef7 XVII \u2013 XIX, h\u1ea7u h\u1ebft c\u00f4ng vi\u1ec7c c\u1ee7a c\u00e1c nh\u00e0 nh\u1eadp kh\u1ea9u c\u00e0 ph\u00ea, l\u00e0 t\u00ecm ra c\u00e1c khi\u1ebfm khuy\u1ebft n\u00e0y trong c\u00e0 ph\u00ea c\u1ee7a h\u1ecd \u2013 theo William H. Ukers, trong cu\u1ed1n s\u00e1ch kinh \u0111i\u1ec3n c\u1ee7a \u00f4ng\u00a0All about Coffee<\/a><\/em><\/strong>, v\u00e0 th\u1eddi \u0111i\u1ec3m \u0111\u00f3 kh\u00f4ng ai mu\u1ed1n c\u00f3 m\u1ed9t l\u00f4 \u201cc\u00e0 ph\u00ea l\u00e2u n\u0103m\u201d.<\/span><\/p>\n

N\u00f3i chung, \u0111\u1ed9 t\u01b0\u01a1i c\u1ee7a c\u00e0 ph\u00ea s\u1ebd quy\u1ebft \u0111\u1ecbnh c\u00f3 bao nhi\u00eau h\u01b0\u01a1ng v\u1ecb v\u00e0 m\u00f9i th\u01a1m m\u00e0 ch\u00fang ta c\u00f3 th\u1ec3 n\u1ebfm \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c trong m\u1ed9t t\u00e1ch nh\u1ea5t \u0111\u1ecbnh. \u0110i\u1ec1u n\u00e0y c\u00f3 ngh\u0129a l\u00e0 c\u00e0 ph\u00ea t\u01b0\u01a1i h\u01a1n th\u01b0\u1eddng s\u00f4i \u0111\u1ed9ng v\u00e0 ph\u1ee9c t\u1ea1p h\u01a1n. Tuy nhi\u00ean, \u0111i\u1ec1u quan tr\u1ecdng c\u1ea7n l\u01b0u \u00fd l\u00e0 c\u00e0 ph\u00ea nh\u00e2n xanh s\u1ebd d\u1ec5 gi\u1eef \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c \u0111\u1ed9 t\u01b0\u01a1i l\u00e2u h\u01a1n so v\u1edbi c\u00e0 ph\u00ea sau khi rang. H\u1ea7u h\u1ebft c\u00e1c nh\u00e0 rang xay, y\u00eau c\u1ea7u c\u00e0 ph\u00ea nh\u00e2n ph\u1ea3i t\u01b0\u01a1i t\u1eeb 6 \u0111\u1ebfn 12 th\u00e1ng sau khi \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c thu ho\u1ea1ch v\u00e0 ch\u1ebf bi\u1ebfn.<\/span><\/p>\n

Kh\u00f4ng gi\u1ed1ng nh\u01b0 qu\u00e1 tr\u00ecnh l\u00e3o h\u00f3a (ageing process) \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c s\u1eed d\u1ee5ng \u0111\u1ec3 l\u00e0m r\u01b0\u1ee3u vang, qu\u00e1 tr\u00ecnh gi\u00e0 h\u00f3a c\u1ee7a c\u00e0 ph\u00ea c\u00f3 li\u00ean quan \u0111\u1ebfn vi\u1ec7c gi\u1ea3m ch\u1ea5t l\u01b0\u1ee3ng h\u01a1n l\u00e0 gia t\u0103ng.<\/strong><\/p>\n

Dr. Gerson Silva Giomo, Agronomic Institute of Campinas in Brazil<\/strong><\/p><\/blockquote>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

T\u1eeb khi\u00a0Specialty Coffee<\/a><\/strong>\u00a0ra \u0111\u1eddi, c\u00e2u th\u1ea7n ch\u00fa c\u1ee7a ch\u1ea5t l\u01b0\u1ee3ng \u0111\u00e3 \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c truy\u1ec1n t\u1ee5ng trong gi\u1edbi c\u00e0 ph\u00ea l\u00e0 \u201ct\u01b0\u01a1i l\u00e0 t\u1ed1t nh\u1ea5t\u201d (fresh is best<\/em>), ngh\u0129a l\u00e0 h\u1ea1t c\u00e0 ph\u00ea chuy\u1ec3n t\u1eeb n\u00f4ng tr\u1ea1i \u0111\u1ebfn c\u1ed1c c\u00e0ng nhanh th\u00ec c\u00e0ng t\u1ed1t. Nh\u01b0ng m\u1ed9t s\u1ed1 \u00edt c\u00e1c\u00a0nh\u00e0 rang xay<\/a><\/strong>\u00a0c\u00e0 ph\u00ea \u0111ang th\u1eed nghi\u1ec7m \u0111\u1ec3 h\u1ea1t c\u00e0 ph\u00ea nh\u00e2n xanh c\u1ee7a h\u1ecd \u201cl\u00e3o h\u00f3a\u201d trong c\u00e1c th\u00f9ng g\u1ed7 s\u1ed3i \u2013 lo\u1ea1i th\u00f9ng \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c s\u1eed d\u1ee5ng \u0111\u1ec3 s\u1ea3n xu\u1ea5t \u0111\u1ed3 u\u1ed1ng nh\u01b0 r\u01b0\u1ee3u whisky, r\u01b0\u1ee3u vang, r\u01b0\u1ee3u rum v\u00e0 \u0111\u1ed3 u\u1ed1ng c\u00f3 c\u1ed3n kh\u00e1c, \u0111\u1ec3 t\u00ecm ki\u1ebfm h\u01b0\u01a1ng v\u1ecb t\u1ed1i \u01b0u nh\u1ea5t. \u0110\u00f3 l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t \u0111\u1ed9ng th\u00e1i quay tr\u1edf l\u1ea1i nh\u1eefng ng\u00e0y \u0111\u1ea7u c\u1ee7a giao d\u1ecbch c\u00e0 ph\u00ea, khi h\u1ea1t c\u00e0 ph\u00ea \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c v\u1eadn chuy\u1ec3n b\u1edfi b\u1ea5t k\u1ef3 th\u00f9ng g\u1ed7 n\u00e0o c\u00f2n r\u1ed7ng tr\u00ean t\u00e0u, b\u00e8.<\/span><\/p>\n

Theo c\u00e1ch l\u00e0m n\u00e0y, nh\u00e0 s\u1ea3n xu\u1ea5t tin r\u1eb1ng v\u00ec c\u00e0 ph\u00ea nh\u00e2n r\u1ea5t d\u1ec5 b\u1ecb \u1ea3nh h\u01b0\u1edfng b\u1edfi c\u00e1c \u0111i\u1ec1u ki\u1ec7n m\u00f4i tr\u01b0\u1eddng n\u00ean l\u1edbp v\u00e1n g\u1ed7 c\u1ee7a th\u00f9ng s\u1ebd \u1ea3nh h\u01b0\u1edfng \u0111\u1ebfn h\u01b0\u01a1ng v\u1ecb trong c\u00e0 ph\u00ea. \u1ede m\u1ed9t m\u1ee9c \u0111\u1ed9 n\u00e0o \u0111\u00f3, vi\u1ec7c \u1ee7 c\u00e0 ph\u00ea trong th\u00f9ng l\u00e0m cho ng\u01b0\u1eddi ti\u00eau d\u00f9ng c\u00f3 c\u1ea3m gi\u00e1c gi\u1ed1ng nh\u01b0 c\u00e0 ph\u00ea c\u00f3 \u201ch\u01b0\u01a1ng v\u1ecb cao c\u1ea5p\u201d. Tuy nhi\u00ean, ch\u00fang ta s\u1ebd ch\u1ec9 n\u00eau l\u00ean nh\u01b0 m\u1ed9t v\u00ed d\u1ee5 m\u1edbi v\u1ec1 vi\u1ec7c l\u01b0u tr\u1eef c\u00e0 ph\u00ea, h\u00e3y \u0111\u1ec3 cho c\u00e1c nh\u00e0 rang v\u00e0 kh\u00e1ch h\u00e0ng c\u1ee7a h\u1ecd quy\u1ebft \u0111\u1ecbnh quan \u0111i\u1ec3m v\u1ec1 vi\u1ec7c n\u00e0y.<\/span><\/p>\n

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H\u00e3y c\u1ea9n th\u1eadn v\u1edbi nh\u1eefng kh\u00e1i ni\u1ec7m c\u0169 \u2013 \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c l\u00e0m m\u1edbi<\/h3>\n

Nhi\u1ec1u nh\u00e0 ti\u1ebfp th\u1ecb \u0111ang th\u1ed5i ph\u1ed3ng c\u00e0 ph\u00ea l\u00e2u n\u0103m nh\u01b0 m\u1ed9t s\u1ea3n ph\u1ea9m s\u00e0nh \u0111i\u1ec7u gi\u1ed1ng nh\u01b0 r\u01b0\u1ee3u vang ho\u1eb7c r\u01b0\u1ee3u whisky l\u00e2u n\u0103m. Trong khi \u0111i\u1ec1u n\u00e0y \u0111\u00fang v\u1edbi m\u1ed9t s\u1ed1 lo\u1ea1i c\u00e0 ph\u00ea l\u00e2u n\u0103m, nh\u1eefng lo\u1ea1i kh\u00e1c ch\u1ec9 \u0111\u01a1n gi\u1ea3n l\u00e0 c\u00e0 ph\u00ea c\u0169, c\u0169 \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c \u0111\u00f3ng g\u00f3i l\u1ea1i nh\u01b0 m\u1ed9t m\u1eb7t h\u00e0ng \u201c\u0111\u1eb7c s\u1ea3n\u201d. \u0110\u00f3 ch\u1eafc ch\u1eafn l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t tr\u01b0\u1eddng h\u1ee3p ng\u01b0\u1eddi mua ph\u1ea3i c\u1ea9n th\u1eadn.<\/span><\/p>\n

Trong khi m\u1ed9t s\u1ed1 ng\u01b0\u1eddi kh\u1eb3ng \u0111\u1ecbnh r\u1eb1ng c\u00e0 ph\u00ea n\u00f3i chung \u2013 l\u00e0 lo\u1ea1i h\u1ea1t c\u00f3 tu\u1ed5i th\u1ecd cao (\u0111i\u1ec1u n\u00e0y r\u1ea5t \u0111\u00e1ng tranh lu\u1eadn), th\u00ec m\u1ed9t s\u1ed1 ng\u01b0\u1eddi kh\u00e1c cho r\u1eb1ng c\u00e0 ph\u00ea c\u00e0ng gi\u00e0 th\u00ec c\u00e0ng ngon \u2013 m\u1ed9t l\u1ea7n n\u1eefa, r\u1ea5t \u0111\u00e1ng nghi v\u1ea5n. M\u1eb7c d\u00f9 c\u00e0 ph\u00ea l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t trong s\u1ed1 c\u00e1c m\u1eb7t h\u00e0ng n\u00f4ng s\u1ea3n c\u00f3 tu\u1ed5i th\u1ecd t\u1ed1t, nh\u01b0ng ch\u00fang ta v\u1eabn \u0111ang thi\u1ebfu v\u1eafng c\u00e1c nghi\u00ean c\u1ee9u c\u00f3 gi\u00e1 tr\u1ecb khoa h\u1ecdc v\u1ec1 l\u1ee3i \u00edch c\u1ee7a vi\u1ec7c \u201cl\u00e3o ho\u00e1\u201d c\u00e0 ph\u00ea. Ngo\u00e0i ra, h\u1ea7u h\u1ebft c\u00e1c chuy\u00ean gia \u0111\u1ed3ng \u00fd r\u1eb1ng c\u00e0 ph\u00ea kh\u00f4ng ti\u1ebfp t\u1ee5c c\u1ea3i thi\u1ec7n ch\u1ea5t l\u01b0\u1ee3ng khi n\u00f3 \u0111\u1ec3 l\u00e2u h\u01a1n v\u00ec n\u00f3 ch\u1ec9 \u0111\u01a1n gi\u1ea3n l\u00e0 m\u1ea5t nhi\u1ec1u h\u01b0\u01a1ng v\u1ecb h\u01a1n khi n\u00f3 gi\u00e0 \u0111i<\/strong>\u00a0(v\u00e0 ph\u1ea7n l\u1edbn trong ch\u00fang ta \u0111\u1ec1u n\u1ed7 l\u1ef1c v\u00ec m\u1ee5c \u0111\u00edch n\u00e0y). V\u00ec v\u1eady, n\u1ebfu th\u1ef1c s\u1ef1 b\u1ea1n c\u00f3 th\u1ec3 mua \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c c\u00e0 ph\u00ea t\u00e1m n\u0103m tu\u1ed5i \u2013 ho\u1eb7c h\u01a1n, b\u1ea1n c\u00f3 th\u1ec3 kh\u00f4ng mu\u1ed1n u\u1ed1ng n\u00f3!<\/span><\/p>\n

T\u00f3m l\u1ea1i, \u201cc\u00e0 ph\u00ea l\u00e2u n\u0103m\u201d c\u00f3 th\u1ec3 l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t nh\u00e1nh r\u1ebd m\u1edbi trong vi\u1ec7c kh\u00e1m ph\u00e1 h\u01b0\u01a1ng v\u1ecb c\u1ee7a m\u1ed9t ng\u00e0nh c\u00e0 ph\u00ea \u0111\u1eb7c s\u1ea3n \u0111ang loay hoay t\u00ecm ki\u1ebfm nh\u1eefng \u0111i\u1ec1u m\u1edbi, v\u00e0 kh\u00f4ng ph\u1ea3i l\u00fac n\u00e0o c\u00e0 ph\u00ea c\u0169ng c\u00f3 ch\u1ea5t l\u01b0\u1ee3ng th\u1ea5p h\u01a1n. Tuy nhi\u00ean, c\u00e0 ph\u00ea c\u0169\/l\u00e2u n\u0103m c\u00f3 nhi\u1ec1u kh\u1ea3 n\u0103ng \u0111\u00e3 m\u1ea5t \u0111i ph\u1ea7n l\u1edbn h\u01b0\u01a1ng v\u1ecb v\u00e0 m\u00f9i th\u01a1m \u2013 d\u1eabn \u0111\u1ebfn nh\u1eefng h\u01b0\u01a1ng v\u1ecb t\u1eebng b\u1ecb ch\u1ed1i b\u1ecf trong l\u1ecbch s\u1eed.\u001cCh\u00fang ta c\u00e0ng c\u00f3 th\u1ec3 \u0111\u00e1nh gi\u00e1 cao nh\u1eefng lo\u1ea1i c\u00e0 ph\u00ea n\u00e0y. M\u1eb7c d\u00f9 h\u01b0\u01a1ng v\u1ecb c\u00f3 th\u1ec3 kh\u00f4ng d\u00e0nh cho t\u1ea5t c\u1ea3 m\u1ecdi ng\u01b0\u1eddi, nh\u01b0ng n\u00f3 c\u00f3 th\u1ec3 l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t tr\u1ea3i nghi\u1ec7m m\u1edbi \u0111\u1ed1i v\u1edbi m\u1ed9t s\u1ed1 ng\u01b0\u1eddi ti\u00eau d\u00f9ng.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Ngu\u1ed3n tham kh\u1ea3o:<\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n