{"id":7240,"date":"2023-08-24T09:55:54","date_gmt":"2023-08-24T02:55:54","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/olphs.net\/?p=7240"},"modified":"2024-05-17T13:54:08","modified_gmt":"2024-05-17T06:54:08","slug":"terroir-la-gi-va-co-anh-huong-gi-den-chat-luong-ca-phe","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/olphs.net\/terroir-la-gi-va-co-anh-huong-gi-den-chat-luong-ca-phe\/","title":{"rendered":"Terroir l\u00e0 g\u00ec v\u00e0 c\u00f3 \u1ea3nh h\u01b0\u1edfng g\u00ec \u0111\u1ebfn ch\u1ea5t l\u01b0\u1ee3ng c\u00e0 ph\u00ea?"},"content":{"rendered":"
Terroir<\/i><\/b> l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t t\u1eeb kho\u00e1 \u0111ang ng\u00e0y c\u00e0ng ph\u1ed5 bi\u1ebfn trong ng\u00e0nh c\u00e0 ph\u00ea. V\u1eady thu\u1eadt ng\u1eef n\u00e0y c\u00f3 th\u1ec3 \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c \u0111\u1ecbnh ngh\u0129a v\u00e0 c\u00f3 li\u00ean h\u1ec7 nh\u01b0 th\u1ebf n\u00e0o \u0111\u1ed1i v\u1edbi h\u01b0\u01a1ng v\u1ecb c\u00e0 ph\u00ea? V\u00e0 t\u1ea1i sao ng\u01b0\u1eddi y\u00eau c\u00e0 ph\u00ea, th\u1ee3 pha ch\u1ebf, nh\u00e0 rang xay, c\u0169ng nh\u01b0 nh\u00e0 s\u1ea3n xu\u1ea5t, \u2026ph\u1ea3i l\u01b0u t\u00e2m \u0111\u1ebfn terroir?\u00a0<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n \u0110\u1ec3 \u0111\u1ea3m b\u1ea3o v\u1ec1 m\u1eb7t ki\u1ebfn th\u1ee9c cho b\u00e0i vi\u1ebft, t\u00e1c gi\u1ea3 \u0111\u00e3 tham kh\u1ea3o \u00fd ki\u1ebfn t\u1eeb c\u00e1c l\u00e3nh \u0111\u1ea1o trong ng\u00e0nh c\u00e0 ph\u00ea v\u00e0 r\u01b0\u1ee3u. Th\u00f4ng tin chi ti\u1ebft s\u1ebd \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c \u0111\u1ec1 c\u1eadp b\u00ean d\u01b0\u1edbi.<\/span><\/p>\n Tarraz\u00fa, Costa Rica, n\u1ed5i ti\u1ebfng v\u1ec1 \u0111\u1ea5t n\u00fai l\u1eeda v\u00e0 \u0111\u1ed9 cao l\u1edbn so v\u1edbi m\u1eb7t n\u01b0\u1edbc bi\u1ec3n. Ngu\u1ed3n: Maria Fernanda Carrillo Chacon<\/span><\/i><\/a><\/p>\n V\u1ec1 c\u01a1 b\u1ea3n, \u201cTerroir\u201d b\u1eaft ngu\u1ed3n t\u1eeb ti\u1ebfng Ph\u00e1p v\u00e0 th\u00f4ng d\u1ee5ng nh\u1ea5t trong ti\u1ebfng Anh khi b\u00e0n v\u1ec1 r\u01b0\u1ee3u. Pamela A. Villablanca N\u00fa\u00f1ez t\u1eeb <\/span>Hi\u1ec7p h\u1ed9i C\u00e0 ph\u00ea \u0111\u1eb7c s\u1ea3n M\u1ef9 Latin <\/b><\/a>v\u00e0 <\/span>Bee Coffee Shop<\/b><\/a> \u0111\u00e3 \u0111\u1ecbnh ngh\u0129a terroir \u201cch\u1ec9 \u0111\u01a1n thu\u1ea7n l\u00e0 \u0111\u1ea5t, v\u00e0 t\u1ea5t c\u1ea3 nh\u1eefng th\u1ee9 li\u00ean quan \u0111\u1ebfn n\u00f3.\u201d<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n Nh\u01b0ng \u1edf kh\u00eda c\u1ea1nh c\u00f4ng nghi\u1ec7p th\u00ec Pamela \u0111\u1ecbnh ngh\u0129a terroir c\u00f3 ph\u1ea7n ph\u1ee9c t\u1ea1p h\u01a1n: \u201c\u0111\u00f3 l\u00e0 \u0111\u1eb7c th\u00f9 v\u1ec1 th\u00e0nh ph\u1ea7n \u0111\u1ea5t; nhi\u1ec7t \u0111\u1ed9; l\u01b0\u1ee3ng m\u01b0a; y\u1ebfu t\u1ed1 vi m\u00f4, v\u0129 m\u00f4, trung kh\u00ed h\u1eadu; v\u00e0 c\u00e1c th\u00f4ng l\u1ec7 v\u0103n h\u00f3a c\u1ee5 th\u1ec3 \u00e1p d\u1ee5ng cho n\u00f4ng nghi\u1ec7p.\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n Keith Pech t\u1eeb <\/span>Damarli Estate<\/b><\/a>, Panama c\u0169ng \u0111\u1ed3ng t\u00ecnh v\u1edbi Pamela, trong \u0111\u00f3, \u00f4ng b\u1ed5 sung th\u00eam: \u201cterroir bao h\u00e0m m\u1ecdi th\u1ee9 li\u00ean quan \u0111\u1ebfn vi\u1ec7c canh t\u00e1c c\u00e0 ph\u00ea, v\u00ec v\u1eady kh\u00f4ng ch\u1ec9 d\u1eebng l\u1ea1i \u1edf \u0111\u1eb7c th\u00f9 c\u1ee7a \u0111\u1ea5t v\u00e0 kh\u00ed h\u1eadu, \u0111\u00f3 l\u00e0 c\u1ea3 m\u1ed9t h\u1ec7 sinh th\u00e1i xung quanh g\u1ed3m c\u1ea3 y\u1ebfu t\u1ed1 con ng\u01b0\u1eddi v\u00e0 tri th\u1ee9c b\u1ea3n \u0111\u1ecba.\u201d<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n Chuy\u1ebfn \u0111i th\u1ef1c \u0111\u1ecba \u0111\u1ebfn m\u1ed9t trang tr\u1ea1i c\u00e0 ph\u00ea \u1edf cao \u0111\u1ed9 l\u1edbn thu\u1ed9c Tarraz\u00fa, Costa Rica. Ngu\u1ed3n: Maria Fernanda Carrillo Chacon<\/span><\/i><\/a><\/p>\n <\/p>\n TERROIR QUAN TR\u1eccNG NH\u01af TH\u1ebe N\u00c0O?<\/b><\/span><\/p>\n Stefano Biscotto t\u1eeb <\/span>Chambers & Chambers Wine Merchants<\/b><\/a> kh\u1eb3ng \u0111\u1ecbnh terroir \u201cl\u00e0m n\u1ed5i b\u1eadt nh\u1eefng \u0111\u1eb7c tr\u01b0ng c\u1ee7a m\u1ed9t gi\u1ed1ng c\u00e2y c\u00e0 ph\u00ea\u201d.\u00a0<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n Nh\u01b0ng v\u00ec kh\u00f4ng c\u00f3 terroir n\u00e0o l\u00e0 gi\u1ed1ng nhau, \u0111\u1ed3ng ngh\u0129a v\u1edbi vi\u1ec7c nh\u1eefng \u0111\u1eb7c tr\u01b0ng n\u00f3 l\u00e0m n\u1ed5i b\u1eadt ra c\u0169ng s\u1ebd kh\u00e1c nhau. C\u00f3 th\u1ec3 hi\u1ec3u \u0111\u01a1n gi\u1ea3n l\u00e0, terroir t\u1ea1o n\u00ean s\u1ef1 kh\u00e1c bi\u1ec7t gi\u1eefa, c\u00e0 ph\u00ea Colombia v\u00e0 c\u00e0 ph\u00ea Brazil, Ethiopia, hay c\u00e0 ph\u00ea Indonesia.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n Ngay c\u1ea3 khi tr\u1ed3ng c\u00f9ng <\/span>m\u1ed9t gi\u1ed1ng c\u00e0 ph\u00ea<\/b> \u2013 ch\u1eb3ng h\u1ea1n nh\u01b0 Villa Sarchi \u2013 \u1edf \u0111\u1ed9 cao 1.400 m.a.s.l. \u1edf Costa Rica v\u00e0 1.900 m.a.s.l. \u1edf Panama, th\u00ec th\u00e0nh ph\u1ea9m c\u00e0 ph\u00ea t\u1eeb 2 n\u01a1i s\u1ebd cho ra v\u1ecb kh\u00e1c nhau. M\u1eb7c d\u00f9 tr\u1ed3ng \u1edf hai n\u01b0\u1edbc l\u00e1ng gi\u1ec1ng c\u1ee7a nhau, nh\u01b0ng \u0111\u1ed9 cao l\u1edbn h\u01a1n \u1edf Panama, \u0111\u1ed3ng ngh\u0129a v\u1edbi kh\u00ed h\u1eadu m\u00e1t m\u1ebb h\u01a1n, kh\u1ea3 n\u0103ng r\u1ea5t cao s\u1ebd khi\u1ebfn c\u00e0 ph\u00ea c\u00f3 nhi\u1ec1u axit h\u01a1n v\u00e0 v\u1ecb ng\u1ecdt h\u01a1n.<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n \u0110\u1ed1i v\u1edbi ti\u00eau d\u00f9ng ph\u1ed5 th\u00f4ng, terroir s\u1ebd \u1ea3nh h\u01b0\u1edfng \u0111\u1ebfn h\u01b0\u01a1ng v\u1ecb c\u1ee7a c\u1ee7a c\u00e0 ph\u00ea sau khi pha. Nh\u01b0ng \u0111\u1ed1i v\u1edbi nh\u00e0 s\u1ea3n xu\u1ea5t v\u00e0 rang xay, t\u00e1c \u0111\u1ed9ng th\u1eadm ch\u00ed c\u00f2n l\u1edbn h\u01a1n. C\u00e1c nh\u00e0 rang xay c\u1ea7n ch\u1ecdn c\u1ea5u h\u00ecnh rang kh\u00f4ng ch\u1ec9 d\u1ef1a tr\u00ean h\u01b0\u01a1ng v\u1ecb ti\u1ec1m \u1ea9n c\u1ee7a h\u1ea1t c\u00e0 ph\u00ea, m\u00e0 c\u00f2n d\u1ef1a tr\u00ean th\u00e0nh ph\u1ea7n ph\u00e2n t\u1eed c\u1ee7a ch\u00fang \u2013<\/span> m\u1ed9t y\u1ebfu t\u1ed1 c\u00f3 th\u1ec3 \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c ki\u1ec3m so\u00e1t b\u1edfi terroir<\/b>.<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n B\u1ea3n th\u00e2n nh\u00e0 s\u1ea3n xu\u1ea5t c\u0169ng l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t ph\u1ea7n c\u1ee7a terroir, trong \u0111\u00f3, h\u1ecd s\u1ebd ph\u1ea3i \u0111i\u1ec1u ch\u1ec9nh ph\u01b0\u01a1ng ph\u00e1p s\u1ea3n xu\u1ea5t v\u00e0 ch\u1ebf bi\u1ebfn m\u00ecnh d\u1ef1a tr\u00ean \u0111\u1ecba l\u00fd, kh\u00ed h\u1eadu v\u00e0 t\u00e0i nguy\u00ean c\u1ee7a \u0111\u1ecba ph\u01b0\u01a1ng.<\/span><\/p>\n Theo Thiago Borba t\u1eeb <\/span>Burgeon Specialty Coffee Tradin<\/b>g<\/b>, \u201cth\u1eddi \u0111i\u1ec3m \u0111\u1eb7c bi\u1ec7t c\u1ea7n ph\u1ea3i l\u01b0u t\u00e2m \u0111\u1ebfn terroir l\u00e0 tr\u01b0\u1edbc khi gieo h\u1ea1t\u201d. \u00d4ng n\u00f3i r\u1eb1ng ki\u1ebfn th\u1ee9c v\u1ec1 terroir \u201cs\u1ebd quy\u1ebft \u0111\u1ecbnh s\u1ef1 th\u00e0nh b\u1ea1i c\u1ee7a c\u1ea3 m\u1ed9t h\u1ec7 th\u1ed1ng \u0111\u1ed3n \u0111i\u1ec1n\u201d c\u0169ng nh\u01b0 \u201cc\u00e1c gi\u1ed1ng c\u00e2y tr\u1ed3ng s\u1ebd \u0111\u1ea3m b\u1ea3o ch\u1ea5t l\u01b0\u1ee3ng t\u1ed1t nh\u1ea5t, t\u1ed1i \u01b0u hi\u1ec7u qu\u1ea3 v\u1ec1 chi ph\u00ed, kh\u1ea3 n\u0103ng kh\u00e1ng s\u00e2u b\u1ec7nh v\u00e0 n\u0103ng su\u1ea5t s\u1ea3n xu\u1ea5t.\u201d<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n <\/p>\n Qu\u1ea3 c\u00e0 ph\u00ea ch\u00edn c\u00e2y t\u1ea1i Tarraz\u00fa, Costa Rica. Credit: Asha Price<\/span><\/i><\/a><\/p>\n B\u1ea5t k\u1ec3 x\u00e9t v\u1ec1 \u0111i\u1ec1u g\u00ec th\u00ec \u201ct\u1ed1t\u201d v\u00e0 \u201cx\u1ea5u\u201d lu\u00f4n mang t\u00ednh ch\u1ee7 quan. Song, nh\u1eefng c\u1ee5m t\u1eeb nh\u01b0 \u201cterroir ho\u00e0n h\u1ea3o\u201d hay \u201cc\u00e0 ph\u00ea ch\u1ea5t l\u01b0\u1ee3ng t\u1ed1t nh\u1edd terroir\u201d l\u1ea1i kh\u00e1 ph\u1ed5 bi\u1ebfn trong ng\u00e0nh c\u00e0 ph\u00ea.<\/span><\/p>\n Theo Pamela, \u201cKh\u00f4ng c\u00f3 kh\u00e1i ni\u1ec7m terroir x\u1ea5u, m\u00e0 \u0111\u01a1n gi\u1ea3n ch\u1ec9 l\u00e0 trong m\u1ed9t \u0111i\u1ec1u ki\u1ec7n terroir c\u1ee5 th\u1ec3, s\u1ebd c\u00f3 m\u1ed9t s\u1ed1 lo\u1ea1i gi\u1ed1ng th\u00edch h\u1ee3p \u0111\u1ec3 tr\u1ed3ng h\u01a1n nh\u1eefng gi\u1ed1ng kh\u00e1c.\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n Keith c\u0169ng c\u00f3 quan \u0111i\u1ec3m t\u01b0\u01a1ng t\u1ef1 nh\u01b0ng nghi\u00eang v\u1ec1 ch\u1ea5t l\u01b0\u1ee3ng h\u01a1n. Theo \u00f4ng, m\u1ee5c ti\u00eau khai th\u00e1c c\u00e0 ph\u00ea h\u1ea3o h\u1ea1ng s\u1ebd ch\u1ec9 gi\u1edbi h\u1ea1n cho m\u1ed9t s\u1ed1 qu\u1ed1c gia. Keith s\u1eed d\u1ee5ng h\u1ec7 th\u1ed1ng t\u00ednh \u0111i\u1ec3m Cupping: tr\u00ean thang \u0111i\u1ec3m 100, c\u00e0 ph\u00ea x\u1ebfp h\u1ea1ng 80+ \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c x\u1ebfp lo\u1ea1i \u0111\u1eb7c s\u1ea3n trong khi 90+ l\u00e0 nh\u1eefng l\u00f4 hi\u1ebfm v\u00e0 th\u01b0\u1eddng c\u1ef1c k\u1ef3 \u0111\u1eaft ti\u1ec1n.<\/span><\/p>\n Trong ng\u00e0nh s\u1ebd c\u00f3 m\u1ed9t s\u1ed1 qu\u1ed1c gia c\u00f3 th\u1ebf m\u1ea1nh c\u00e0 ph\u00ea \u0111\u1eb7c s\u1ea3n h\u01a1n nh\u1eefng n\u01a1i kh\u00e1c. Costa Rica, Colombia, Ethiopia\u2026 \u0111\u1ec1u \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c c\u00f4ng nh\u1eadn l\u00e0 nh\u1eefng nh\u00e0 s\u1ea3n xu\u1ea5t c\u00e0 ph\u00ea h\u1ea3o h\u1ea1ng. Tuy nhi\u00ean, s\u1ea3n ph\u1ea9m t\u1eeb Brazil v\u00e0 Indonesia th\u01b0\u1eddng c\u00f3 gi\u00e1 c\u1ea3 ph\u1ea3i ch\u0103ng h\u01a1n.<\/span><\/p>\n T\u1eeb \u0111\u00e2y c\u00f3 th\u1ec3 th\u1ea5y \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c m\u1ed9t trong nhi\u1ec1u h\u1ea1n ch\u1ebf c\u1ee7a terroir: c\u00e1c qu\u1ed1c gia nh\u01b0 Brazil tr\u00ean th\u1ef1c t\u1ebf, n\u1ebfu b\u1ecf qua danh ti\u1ebfng v\u1ec1 gi\u00e1 th\u00e0nh ph\u1ea3i ch\u0103ng, v\u1eabn c\u00f3 kh\u1ea3 n\u0103ng s\u1ea3n xu\u1ea5t c\u00e0 ph\u00ea ch\u1ea5t l\u01b0\u1ee3ng cao. Minh ch\u1ee9ng c\u1ee5 th\u1ec3 l\u00e0 v\u00e0o n\u0103m 2017 t\u1ea1i Cup of Excellence, ch\u00edn lo\u1ea1i <\/span>c\u00e0 ph\u00ea nh\u00e2n t\u1ef1 nhi\u00ean v\u00e0 c\u00e0 ph\u00ea nh\u00e2n m\u1eadt ong<\/b> t\u1eeb Brazil \u0111\u1ec1u \u0111\u1ea1t \u0111i\u1ec3m 90+.<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n M\u1ed9t qu\u1ed1c gia c\u00f3 th\u1ec3 c\u00f3 terroir kh\u00f4ng ph\u00f9 h\u1ee3p v\u1edbi <\/span>m\u1ed9t s\u1ed1 lo\u1ea1i gi\u1ed1ng<\/b>, h\u01b0\u01a1ng v\u1ecb v\u00e0 \u0111i\u1ec3m s\u1ed1 Cupping c\u1ee5 th\u1ec3, song \u0111i\u1ec1u \u0111\u00f3 kh\u00f4ng c\u00f3 ngh\u0129a l\u00e0 kh\u00f4ng th\u1ec3 canh t\u00e1c c\u00e0 ph\u00ea t\u1ea1i qu\u1ed1c gia n\u00e0y.<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n <\/a><\/p>\n Quang c\u1ea3nh n\u00fai r\u1eebng t\u1ea1i Tarraz\u00fa, Costa Rica. Ngu\u1ed3n: Maria Fernanda Carrillo Chacon<\/span><\/i><\/span><\/p>\n <\/p>\n Sau khi t\u00ecm hi\u1ec3u r\u1eb1ng terroir l\u00e0m n\u1ed5i b\u1eadt \u0111\u1eb7c \u0111i\u1ec3m c\u1ee7a m\u1ed9t lo\u1ea1i c\u00e0 ph\u00ea, ho\u1eb7c m\u1ed9t s\u1ed1 terroir ph\u00f9 h\u1ee3p h\u01a1n v\u1edbi m\u1ed9t s\u1ed1 lo\u1ea1i c\u00e0 ph\u00ea. Nh\u01b0ng li\u1ec7u ch\u00fang ta c\u00f3 th\u1ec3 ki\u1ebfn t\u1ea1o n\u00ean m\u1ed9t terroir l\u00fd t\u01b0\u1edfng \u0111\u1ec3 tr\u1ed3ng c\u00e0 ph\u00ea \u0111\u1eb7c s\u1ea3n ch\u1ea5t l\u01b0\u1ee3ng cao?<\/span><\/p>\n T\u00e1c gi\u1ea3 \u0111\u00e3 th\u1ef1c hi\u1ec7n ph\u1ecfng v\u1ea5n 3 \u0111\u1ed1i t\u01b0\u1ee3ng, trong \u0111\u00f3 h\u1ecd \u0111\u1ec1u nh\u1ea5n m\u1ea1nh ba y\u1ebfu t\u1ed1 ch\u00ednh:<\/span><\/p>\n Kh\u00f4ng ng\u1ea1c nhi\u00ean khi \u0111\u1ea5t s\u1ebd l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t trong 3 y\u1ebfu t\u1ed1 k\u1ec3 tr\u00ean khi \u0111\u1ea5t v\u1ed1n \u0111\u00e3 xu\u1ea5t hi\u1ec7n trong \u0111\u1ecbnh ngh\u0129a c\u1ee7a \u201cTerroir\u201d. Theo Thiago, kho\u00e1ng ch\u1ea5t trong \u0111\u1ea5t \u201cc\u00f3 th\u1ec3 \u1ea3nh h\u01b0\u1edfng \u0111\u1ebfn t\u1ed5ng th\u1ec3 c\u0169ng nh\u01b0 <\/span>n\u1ed3ng \u0111\u1ed9 axit<\/b> c\u1ee7a h\u1ea1t\u201d. Do \u0111\u00f3, v\u00f9ng \u0111\u1ea5t n\u00fai l\u1eeda s\u1ebd l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t \u0111i\u1ec1u ki\u1ec7n l\u00fd t\u01b0\u1edfng \u0111\u1ec3 canh t\u00e1c c\u00e0 ph\u00ea b\u1edfi l\u01b0\u1ee3ng l\u1edbn kho\u00e1ng ch\u1ea5t thi\u1ebft y\u1ebfu c\u00f3 trong lo\u1ea1i \u0111\u1ea5t n\u00e0y bao g\u1ed3m magi\u00ea, ph\u1ed1t pho, kali, canxi v\u00e0 k\u1ebdm.<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n H\u01a1n n\u1eefa, Keith gi\u1ea3i th\u00edch r\u1eb1ng \u0111\u1ea5t n\u00fai l\u1eeda c\u00f3 h\u1ec7 th\u1ed1ng tho\u00e1t n\u01b0\u1edbc s\u00e2u. Thiago n\u00f3i th\u00eam: \u201c\u0111\u1ea5t c\u00f3 th\u00f4ng tho\u00e1ng kh\u00ed h\u01a1n v\u00e0 l\u01b0\u1ee3ng ch\u1ea5t h\u1eefu c\u01a1 cao h\u01a1n c\u00f3 th\u1ec3 \u0111\u1ea3m b\u1ea3o kh\u1ea3 n\u0103ng gi\u1eef n\u01b0\u1edbc t\u1ed1t h\u01a1n trong m\u00f9a m\u01b0a, t\u1ea1o ngu\u1ed3n d\u1ef1 tr\u1eef cho th\u1eddi k\u1ef3 kh\u00f4 h\u1ea1n\u201d, nh\u1edd \u0111\u00f3 \u1ea3nh h\u01b0\u1edfng tr\u1ef1c ti\u1ebfp \u0111\u1ebfn kh\u1ea3 n\u0103ng ti\u1ebfp c\u1eadn ch\u1ea5t dinh d\u01b0\u1ee1ng v\u00e0 kho\u00e1ng ch\u1ea5t c\u1ee7a c\u00e2y tr\u1ed3ng.<\/span><\/p>\n S\u1ea3n xu\u1ea5t c\u00e0 ph\u00ea th\u01b0\u1eddng di\u1ec5n ra trong khu v\u1ef1c g\u1ecdi l\u00e0 \u201cthe bean belt\u201d (d\u1ecbch: v\u00e0nh \u0111ai h\u1ea1t) tr\u1ea3i d\u00e0i kh\u1eafp th\u1ebf gi\u1edbi, n\u1eb1m tr\u00ean \u0111\u01b0\u1eddng x\u00edch \u0111\u1ea1o nh\u01b0ng k\u00e9o d\u00e0i v\u1ec1 ph\u00eda b\u1eafc nh\u01b0 Mexico v\u00e0 Myanmar v\u00e0 xa v\u1ec1 ph\u00eda nam nh\u01b0 Brazil v\u00e0 Tanzania.<\/span><\/p>\n Tuy nhi\u00ean, c\u00f3 nhi\u1ec1u v\u00f9ng kh\u00ed h\u1eadu kh\u00e1c nhau (c\u1ea3 vi m\u00f4 v\u00e0 v\u0129 m\u00f4) trong v\u00e0nh \u0111ai h\u1ea1t. Ph\u1ed5 bi\u1ebfn trong s\u1ed1 \u0111\u00f3 l\u00e0 vi kh\u00ed h\u1eadu – m\u1ed9t khu v\u1ef1c nh\u1ecf c\u00f3 kh\u00ed h\u1eadu kh\u00e1c bi\u1ec7t r\u00f5 r\u1ec7t v\u1edbi to\u00e0n khu v\u1ef1c. V\u00ed d\u1ee5, vi kh\u00ed h\u1eadu c\u00f3 th\u1ec3 g\u00e2y ra b\u1edfi nh\u1eefng thung l\u0169ng c\u00f3 m\u00e1i che.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n Keith cho r\u1eb1ng \u0111i\u1ec1u t\u1ea5t y\u1ebfu l\u00e0 c\u00f3 m\u00f9a m\u01b0a v\u00e0 m\u00f9a kh\u00f4 r\u00f5 r\u1ec7t: \u201c[M\u00f9a] m\u01b0a h\u1ed7 tr\u1ee3 cho vi\u1ec7c canh t\u00e1c, k\u1ebft tr\u00e1i v\u00e0 h\u1ea5p th\u1ee5 t\u1ea5t c\u1ea3 ch\u1ea5t dinh d\u01b0\u1ee1ng cho c\u00e2y.\u201d Tuy v\u1eady, <\/span>trong qu\u00e1 tr\u00ecnh thu ho\u1ea1ch, m\u01b0a l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t d\u1ea5u hi\u1ec7u x\u1ea5u<\/b>. N\u00f3 c\u00f3 th\u1ec3 l\u00e0m h\u1ecfng qu\u1ea3 c\u00e0 ph\u00ea, l\u00e0m ch\u1eadm qu\u00e1 tr\u00ecnh s\u1ea5y kh\u00f4, v.v. V\u00e0 theo Keith, m\u00f9a kh\u00f4 c\u0169ng gi\u00fap \u00edch cho v\u1ee5 thu ho\u1ea1ch k\u1ebf ti\u1ebfp v\u00ec n\u00f3 th\u00fac \u0111\u1ea9y ra hoa \u2013 thi\u1ebft y\u1ebfu cho vi\u1ec7c ph\u00e1t tri\u1ec3n c\u1ee7a nh\u1eefng <\/span>qu\u1ea3 c\u00e0 ph\u00ea<\/b> m\u1edbi ph\u00e1t tri\u1ec3n.<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n Y\u1ebfu t\u1ed1 \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c c\u1ea3 3 \u0111\u1ed1i t\u01b0\u1ee3ng kh\u1ea3o s\u00e1t nh\u1eafc \u0111\u1ebfn l\u00e0 n\u01a1i \u0111\u1ea5t cao ho\u1eb7c \u0111\u1ed9 cao. Keith k\u1ebft lu\u1eadn r\u1eb1ng \u201c\u1edf \u0111\u1ed9 cao c\u00e0ng l\u1edbn th\u00ec axit trong qu\u1ea3 c\u00e0 ph\u00ea s\u1ebd c\u00e0ng nhi\u1ec1u, t\u1eeb \u0111\u00f3 cho ra v\u1ecb ng\u1ecdt h\u01a1n c\u0169ng nh\u01b0 ch\u1ea5t l\u01b0\u1ee3ng cao h\u01a1n. \u0110i\u1ec1u t\u01b0\u01a1ng t\u1ef1 c\u0169ng x\u1ea3y ra \u0111\u1ed1i v\u1edbi qu\u1ea3 tr\u1ed3ng l\u00e0m r\u01b0\u1ee3u.\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n Song, ng\u1ecdn ngu\u1ed3n t\u1ea1o n\u00ean s\u1ef1 kh\u00e1c bi\u1ec7t \u0111\u00f3 kh\u00f4ng ph\u1ea3i l\u00e0 \u0111\u1ed9 cao m\u00e0 l\u00e0 kh\u00ed h\u1eadu. \u201cN\u00f3i \u0111\u00fang h\u01a1n l\u00e0 th\u1eddi ti\u1ebft v\u00e0 nhi\u1ec7t \u0111\u1ed9,\u201d Keith b\u1ed5 sung th\u00eam. \u201cNhi\u1ec7t \u0111\u1ed9 c\u00e0ng cao s\u1ebd th\u00ec n\u1ed3ng \u0111\u1ed9 axit s\u1ebd c\u00e0ng nhi\u1ec1u, \u00e1p d\u1ee5ng \u0111\u1ed1i v\u1edbi c\u1ea3 c\u00e0 ph\u00ea v\u00e0 r\u01b0\u1ee3u.\u201d\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n Theo Thiago, \u0111i\u1ec1u n\u00e0y \u201c\u1ea3nh h\u01b0\u1edfng tr\u1ef1c ti\u1ebfp \u0111\u1ebfn qu\u00e1 tr\u00ecnh ch\u00edn c\u1ee7a qu\u1ea3. Nh\u1eefng lo\u1ea1i tr\u00e1i ph\u00e1t tri\u1ec3n ch\u1eadm h\u01a1n c\u00f3 c\u00e1c \u0111\u1eb7c \u0111i\u1ec3m nh\u01b0 n\u1ed3ng \u0111\u1ed9 \u0111\u01b0\u1eddng cao h\u01a1n, \u0111\u1ed3ng th\u1eddi t\u0103ng m\u00f9i v\u1ecb v\u00e0 \u0111\u1ed9 \u0111\u1eb7c l\u00ean.\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n V\u00ec n\u01a1i \u0111\u1ea5t cao li\u00ean quan \u0111\u1ebfn nhi\u1ec7t \u0111\u1ed9, n\u00ean c\u0169ng c\u1ea7n thi\u1ebft ph\u1ea3i xem x\u00e9t nh\u1eefng y\u1ebfu t\u1ed1 kh\u00e1c nh\u01b0 kho\u1ea3ng c\u00e1ch t\u1eeb \u0111\u01b0\u1eddng x\u00edch \u0111\u1ea1o, y\u1ebfu t\u1ed1 gi\u00f3, v.v. \u0110\u1ed9 cao c\u00f3 th\u1ec3 l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t c\u00f4ng c\u1ee5 h\u1eefu \u00edch \u0111\u1ec3 so s\u00e1nh hai trang tr\u1ea1i t\u1eeb c\u00f9ng m\u1ed9t khu v\u1ef1c; nh\u01b0ng s\u1ebd kh\u00f4ng h\u1eefu d\u1ee5ng khi, ch\u1eb3ng h\u1ea1n nh\u01b0, so s\u00e1nh c\u00e0 ph\u00ea c\u1ee7a Ecuador v\u1edbi c\u00e0 ph\u00ea c\u1ee7a Mexico ho\u1eb7c c\u00e0 ph\u00ea c\u1ee7a Yemen v\u1edbi c\u00e0 ph\u00ea c\u1ee7a Kenya.<\/span><\/p>\n <\/a>Qu\u1ea3 ch\u00edn chu\u1ea9n b\u1ecb \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c ch\u1ebf bi\u1ebfn t\u1ea1i Tarraz\u00fa, Costa Rica. Ngu\u1ed3n: Maria Fernanda Carrillo Chacon<\/span><\/i><\/span><\/p>\n X\u00e9t v\u1ec1 r\u01b0\u1ee3u th\u00ec terroir ch\u00ednh l\u00e0 nh\u00e2n t\u1ed1 quy\u1ebft \u0111\u1ecbnh.<\/span><\/p>\n Nh\u01b0ng \u0111\u1ed1i v\u1edbi c\u00e0 ph\u00ea, terroir c\u00f3 ph\u1ea3i l\u00e0 t\u1ea5t c\u1ea3?<\/span><\/p>\n Theo quan \u0111i\u1ec3m c\u1ee7a Keith, \u201cqu\u00e1 tr\u00ecnh ch\u1ebf bi\u1ebfn c\u00f3 t\u1ea7m quan tr\u1ecdng l\u1edbn h\u01a1n, th\u1eadm ch\u00ed c\u00f3 th\u1ec3 l\u1ea5n \u00e1t \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c terroir n\u1ebfu th\u1ef1c hi\u1ec7n \u0111\u00fang c\u00e1ch.\u201d Trong qu\u00e1 tr\u00ecnh n\u00e0y, h\u1ea1t c\u00e0 ph\u00ea \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c lo\u1ea1i b\u1ecf kh\u1ecfi ph\u1ea7n th\u1ecbt qu\u1ea3. Ngo\u00e0i ra, c\u00e1c b\u01b0\u1edbc h\u00e1i, l\u00ean men, s\u1ea5y kh\u00f4, l\u01b0u kho v\u00e0 ch\u1ebf bi\u1ebfn kh\u00e1c c\u00f3 th\u1ec3 c\u00f3 \u1ea3nh h\u01b0\u1edfng t\u00edch c\u1ef1c ho\u1eb7c ti\u00eau c\u1ef1c \u0111\u1ebfn m\u00f9i v\u1ecb c\u1ee7a th\u00e0nh ph\u1ea9m – t\u1ee9c l\u00e0 c\u00f3 th\u1ec3 t\u0103ng ho\u1eb7c gi\u1ea3m ch\u1ea5t l\u01b0\u1ee3ng c\u1ee7a ch\u00fang.<\/span><\/p>\n Thiago c\u0169ng b\u1ed5 sung th\u00eam r\u1eb1ng \u201cTerroir c\u00f3 th\u1ec3 c\u1ea3i thi\u1ec7n ch\u1ea5t l\u01b0\u1ee3ng nh\u01b0ng kh\u00f4ng ho\u00e0n to\u00e0n ki\u1ec3m so\u00e1t \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c ch\u1ea5t l\u01b0\u1ee3ng c\u1ee7a th\u00e0nh ph\u1ea9m. Kh\u00e2u qu\u1ea3n l\u00fd thu ho\u1ea1ch \u0111\u00fang quy c\u00e1ch c\u0169ng \u0111\u00f3ng m\u1ed9t vai tr\u00f2 r\u1ea5t quan tr\u1ecdng\u2026t\u1eeb vi\u1ec7c ch\u1ecdn n\u01a1i tr\u1ed3ng (\u0111\u1ed3n \u0111i\u1ec1n) l\u00fd t\u01b0\u1edfng \u0111\u1ebfn quy tr\u00ecnh s\u1ea5y kh\u00f4.\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n Nh\u01b0 \u0111\u00e3 n\u00eau tr\u00ean, c\u00f4ng t\u00e1c ch\u1ebf bi\u1ebfn t\u1eeb \u0111\u1ecba ph\u01b0\u01a1ng c\u0169ng l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t trong nh\u1eefng y\u1ebfu t\u1ed1 c\u1ea5u th\u00e0nh terroir. Ch\u1eb3ng h\u1ea1n nh\u01b0 Brazil, m\u1ed9t n\u01a1i n\u1ed5i ti\u1ebfng v\u1ec1 ph\u01b0\u01a1ng ph\u00e1p ch\u1ebf bi\u1ebfn c\u00e0 ph\u00ea nh\u00e2n t\u1ef1 nhi\u00ean (natural) v\u00e0 nh\u00e2n m\u1eadt ong (pulped natural) \u2013 nh\u1eefng ph\u01b0\u01a1ng ph\u00e1p s\u1edf h\u1eefu th\u1ec3 ch\u1ea5t v\u00e0 v\u1ecb ng\u1ecdt, \u0111\u1eb7c bi\u1ec7t th\u00edch h\u1ee3p v\u1edbi kh\u00ed h\u1eadu kh\u00f4 r\u00e1o c\u1ee7a \u0111\u1ea5t n\u01b0\u1edbc n\u00e0y. M\u1eb7t kh\u00e1c, Kenya th\u00ec \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c bi\u1ebft \u0111\u1ebfn nh\u1edd ph\u01b0\u01a1ng ph\u00e1p ch\u1ebf bi\u1ebfn \u01b0\u1edbt (double washed): m\u1ed9t ph\u01b0\u01a1ng ph\u00e1p c\u1ef1c k\u1ef3 s\u1ea1ch kh\u00f4ng nh\u1eefng gi\u00fap gi\u1eef nguy\u00ean m\u00e0 c\u00f2n cho ph\u00e9p h\u01b0\u01a1ng v\u1ecb v\u1ed1n c\u00f3 c\u1ee7a c\u00e0 ph\u00ea t\u1ecfa s\u00e1ng.<\/span><\/p>\n \u0110\u00f4i khi nh\u00e0 s\u1ea3n xu\u1ea5t s\u1ebd ch\u1ecdn s\u1eed d\u1ee5ng nh\u1eefng ph\u01b0\u01a1ng ph\u00e1p k\u1ec3 tr\u00ean ho\u1eb7c c\u00f3 ph\u1ea7n n\u00e0o \u0111i ng\u01b0\u1ee3c l\u1ea1i v\u1edbi truy\u1ec1n th\u1ed1ng \u0111\u1ecba ph\u01b0\u01a1ng. Song, \u0111i\u1ec1u n\u00e0y kh\u00f4ng n\u1eb1m trong terroir.<\/span><\/p>\n V\u00e0 nh\u01b0 Pamela kh\u1eb3ng \u0111\u1ecbnh, \u201c y\u1ebfu t\u1ed1 con ng\u01b0\u1eddi ch\u00ednh l\u00e0 y\u1ebfu t\u1ed1 quy\u1ebft \u0111\u1ecbnh m\u1ed9t ly c\u00e0 ph\u00ea ngon.\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n \n V\u1ecf qu\u1ea3 c\u00e0 ph\u00ea \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c ch\u1ea5t th\u00e0nh th\u1ed1ng sau khi lo\u1ea1i b\u1ecf nh\u00e2n. Ngu\u1ed3n: <\/span><\/i><\/a>Neil Palmer (CIAT) via Flickr<\/i><\/b><\/a>, <\/span><\/i><\/a>CC BY-SA 2.0<\/i><\/b><\/a><\/p>\n <\/p>\n M\u1eb7c d\u00f9 v\u1eabn c\u00f2n tranh c\u00e3i li\u1ec7u terroir c\u00f3 ph\u1ea3i l\u00e0 \u0111i\u1ec1u ki\u1ec7n quan tr\u1ecdng nh\u1ea5t hay kh\u00f4ng, nh\u01b0ng kh\u00f4ng th\u1ec3 ph\u1ee7 nh\u1eadn t\u1ea7m quan tr\u1ecdng c\u1ee7a n\u00f3 v\u1edbi c\u00e0 ph\u00ea. Do \u0111\u00f3 bi\u1ebfn \u0111\u1ed5i kh\u00ed h\u1eadu l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t ch\u01b0\u1edbng ng\u1ea1i \u0111\u1ed1i v\u1edbi nhi\u1ec1u nh\u00e0 s\u1ea3n xu\u1ea5t. Nh\u01b0 Stefano n\u00f3i, \u201cKh\u00f4ng th\u1ec3 n\u00f3i v\u1ec1 terroir m\u00e0 kh\u00f4ng \u0111i k\u00e8m v\u1edbi bi\u1ebfn \u0111\u1ed5i kh\u00ed h\u1eadu.\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n \u00d4ng c\u00f2n n\u00f3i r\u1eb1ng \u201cbi\u1ebfn \u0111\u1ed5i kh\u00ed h\u1eadu \u0111ang \u1ea3nh h\u01b0\u1edfng l\u1edbn \u0111\u1ebfn terroir.\u201d V\u1edbi nhi\u1ec7t \u0111\u1ed9 ng\u00e0y c\u00e0ng t\u0103ng, khi\u1ebfn nh\u1eefng n\u01a1i v\u1ed1n c\u00f3 nhi\u1ec7t \u0111\u1ed9 m\u00e1t – t\u1ea1o ra c\u00e0 ph\u00ea ng\u1ecdt h\u01a1n, c\u00f3 t\u00ednh axit h\u01a1n – d\u1ea7n kh\u00f4ng c\u00f2n \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c nh\u01b0 tr\u01b0\u1edbc.<\/span><\/p>\n \u201cM\u1ecdi ng\u01b0\u1eddi \u0111ang ph\u1ea3i c\u1ed1 g\u1eafng t\u00ecm ki\u1ebfm \u0111\u1ed9 cao cao h\u01a1n n\u1eefa\u2026 \u0111\u1ec3 ki\u1ebfn t\u1ea1o \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c \u0111\u1ed9 chua v\u00e0 \u0111\u1ed9 t\u01b0\u01a1i nh\u01b0 tr\u01b0\u1edbc kia. Nhi\u1ec1u nh\u00e0 s\u1ea3n xu\u1ea5t r\u01b0\u1ee3u vang \u0111ang th\u00edch \u1ee9ng v\u1edbi bi\u1ebfn \u0111\u1ed5i kh\u00ed h\u1eadu b\u1eb1ng c\u00e1ch chuy\u1ec3n sang khai th\u00e1c c\u00e1c lo\u1ea1i gi\u1ed1ng ph\u00f9 h\u1ee3p v\u1edbi th\u1eddi ti\u1ebft \u1ea5m h\u01a1n.\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n Hi\u1ec7n nay c\u00e0 ph\u00ea \u0111ang t\u1ea1o ra sinh k\u1ebf cho h\u01a1n 100 tri\u1ec7u d\u00e2n tr\u00ean th\u1ebf gi\u1edbi<\/b><\/a>. Nh\u01b0ng <\/span>c\u00e1c nh\u00e0 nghi\u00ean c\u1ee9u d\u1ef1 \u0111o\u00e1n<\/b><\/a> r\u1eb1ng \u0111\u1ebfn n\u0103m 2050, di\u1ec7n t\u00edch \u0111\u1ea5t ph\u00f9 h\u1ee3p \u0111\u1ec3 s\u1ea3n xu\u1ea5t c\u00e0 ph\u00ea s\u1ebd gi\u1ea3m \u0111i 50% so v\u1edbi hi\u1ec7n nay.<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n Stefano \u0111\u1eb7t ra nghi v\u1ea5n \u201cV\u1eady [nh\u00e0 s\u1ea3n xu\u1ea5t c\u00e0 ph\u00ea] s\u1ebd ph\u1ea3i l\u00e0m g\u00ec trong 10 n\u0103m t\u1edbi khi terroir hi\u1ec7n t\u1ea1i \u0111\u00e3 v\u00e0 \u0111ang bi\u1ebfn chuy\u1ec3n theo t\u1ed1c \u0111\u1ed9 thay \u0111\u1ed5i c\u1ee7a kh\u00ed h\u1eadu to\u00e0n c\u1ea7u?\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n V\u00e0 \u0111i\u1ec1u \u0111\u00f3 \u1ea3nh h\u01b0\u1edfng th\u1ebf n\u00e0o \u0111\u1ebfn c\u00e1c ng\u00e0nh s\u1ea3n xu\u1ea5t c\u00e0 ph\u00ea, r\u01b0\u1ee3u, v\u00e0 c\u00e1c lo\u1ea1i c\u00e2y tr\u1ed3ng kh\u00e1c nh\u01b0 ca cao? Ch\u00fang ta c\u00f3 th\u1ec3 \u1ee9ng bi\u1ebfn nh\u01b0 th\u1ebf n\u00e0o? V\u00e0 con ng\u01b0\u1eddi s\u1ebd l\u00e0m g\u00ec \u0111\u1ec3 How far up can we go? V\u00e0 y\u1ebfu t\u1ed1 con ng\u01b0\u1eddi c\u00f3 th\u1ec3 \u0111\u00f3ng vai tr\u00f2 nh\u01b0 th\u1ebf n\u00e0o trong vi\u1ec7c quy\u1ebft \u0111\u1ecbnh ch\u1ea5t l\u01b0\u1ee3ng c\u1ee7a s\u1ea3n ph\u1ea9m, b\u1ea5t ch\u1ea5p nh\u1eefng thay \u0111\u1ed5i li\u00ean quan \u0111\u1ebfn terroir?<\/span><\/p>\n C\u00f3 l\u1ebd, ch\u1ec9 c\u00f3 th\u1eddi gian m\u1edbi gi\u1ea3i \u0111\u00e1p \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c nh\u1eefng th\u1eafc m\u1eafc n\u00e0y.<\/span><\/p>\n <\/p>\nTERROIR L\u00c0 G\u00cc?<\/b><\/h4>\n
\u201cTERROIR T\u1ed0T\u201d V\u00c0 \u201cTERROIR X\u1ea4U\u201d<\/b><\/h4>\n
3 Y\u1ebeU T\u1ed0 QUY\u1ebeT \u0110\u1ecaNH TERROIR<\/b><\/h4>\n
1. \u0110\u1ea5t<\/i><\/b><\/span><\/h5>\n
2. Kh\u00ed h\u1eadu<\/i><\/b><\/span><\/h5>\n
3. N\u01a1i \u0111\u1ea5t cao<\/i><\/b><\/span><\/h5>\n
TERROIR: C\u00d3 PH\u1ea2I L\u00c0 NH\u00c2N T\u1ed0 QUAN TR\u1eccNG NH\u1ea4T \u0110\u1ed0I V\u1edaI C\u00c0 PH\u00ca?<\/b><\/h4>\n
\u1ee8NG PH\u00d3 V\u1edaI THAY \u0110\u1ed4I KH\u00cd H\u1eacU NH\u01af TH\u1ebe N\u00c0O?<\/b><\/h4>\n